It’s okay. I brushed my teeth with gin
Yes those are lions in the bush behind us…
Selfies by Michelle
First off let me say Kenya was ahhhmazing. We had an unbelievably awesome experience. This trip will go down as one of my absolute faves. I’ll dedicate the next post to our 4-day safari, which included a night in Tsalvo East, a night in the prettiest tent I’ve ever slept in at Amboeseli park, and a night at Salt Lick lodge at Taita hills. I’m still processing all that we saw during those four days.
This post will just show off some pics and remind folk of how adaptable you should become when traveling to an African country. Lights and water pressure will go out, bugs will be big, baboons will bully you, snakes might end up in your room (it was a really tiny baby one, but holy hell did it scare us), and sweat will become your second skin. You’ll see some shit, you’ll smell some shit (um sometimes literally), and you’ll taste and hear some shit, but me oh my if you can get past the stuff that you find ugly or unsettling you will be amazed by the grace and beauty that surrounds you. If you can remember to live by Hakuna Matata and have a good sense of humour about it all, you’ll have a blast and do things like brush your teeth with gin when you realise whoops no bottled water.
Our first night was at Bamburi Beach in a place called Ziwa Beach Hotel, and it was perfect. We slept in what felt like a tree house, which had an outdoor patio that included a swing and view of the beach and pool. I’m not sure of all that we consumed, but the mosquitos didn’t have a chance with our blood. Luckily we also feasted on delicious vegetarian dishes that preserved the rest of our bodies. Bright and early the next morning, our amazing driver Moses picked us up for our safari. Four days later he dropped us off at the end of a long, oh-my-god-it-felt-like-it’d-never-end road, where a well-worn boat took us to Chalet island. If you do nothing else in your life, by all means do try to find a way to spend a few days on Chalet island, around 60 kilometres from Mombassa. It is everything you imagined a tropical island to be. For those of you who remember Fantasy Island, I totally expected Tattoo to announce our arrival.
There is only one resort on the island, The Sands, but it’s a good one with three lovely pools (one of them right across from the mangrove forest), a stunning beach, bright and cheery African decor, A/C humdallah that works!, and friendly staff. The baboons not so much, and I’m still ticked at the one who almost peed on us, but, for the most part, they’re chased away. Monkey drama is all part of the fun. I totally plan on visiting again with Joe.
Pool in a mangrove forest…yes, please
A few tips before I blast you with more pics. Make sure you have a lot of 100 Kenya shilling or American dollar bills. The people at the island resort or any of the hotels we visited don’t pester you for tips, but you’ll want to tip them. It can get a little overwhelming every where you go because staff members are so helpful, and they deserve every shilling you give them. Also, bring some candy and school supplies for the kids. It totally slipped my mind to pack these things, and it drove me crazy that I couldn’t give them to the kids we met in rural areas. Tourists are approached quite a bit by people trying to sell one thing or another, but if you politely say no and let them know you’re adamant about that no, they’ll thank you and move on. Some will stay and chat and really just want to laugh with you —- whalla! Not a single Kenyan treated me poorly, including the many, many people I said no to.
Take for example “Mr. Coconut,” whose souvenirs I did not buy, but he still walked me to a cove to show off these unreal starfish.
And then there is the nature. My words are useless here..
Mt Kilmanjaro
Even seaweed looks good
Good Moring sun! Photo taken by Michelle
And there is so much more to show you! But, I’m still on vacation finishing off my final off day in Dubai. I’ll post more when I have time and better wifi. I’ve only a few thousand photos to choose from. Animal lovers there are a ton of wildlife photos waiting to say hi to you.
La La Salama until next time!
My Mundane
I see camels every day on my work commute, so you’d think I get tired of seeing them. Nope. Here they are sunning themselves on a Dubai beach.
Work is finally easy again, and I have a week and a few days before I’m on spring break, so woo hoo to that. It’s much needed after surviving inspection week, and then final marking, plus a night class and an online class I need to try and finish before Michelle arrives next week.
I’ve been keeping myself busy with the kind of stuff we do here. I’ve happy houred with friends, I’ve cooked yummy, healthy meals, lol and I’ve gone out and ate yummy non healthy meals, I’ve eaten dinner and watched movies/t.v. with friends, I’ve treated myself to an amazing spa day, and I’ve gone to Dubai and beached it, chilled with friends. Basically doing my version of the mundane, which will transition into another version of mundane in about 5 months. Good news is I love my routine, every day stuff because boring it aint.
Karak and roses the day after inspections ended. I will never tire of the girls giving me flowers. The tea cart coming around was a treat from our admin, and in case they’re reading — I’d never tire of receiving that every day either!
Free veggies from a stranger! I’ve discovered a cauliflower alfredo sauce that is to die for and made roasted beets and broccoli — yum, yum. Now, if only I could keep enjoying the veggies and stay away from the breads and pastries I might actually get rid of my buddha belly. But, alas, I’m a locust I eat everything in sight.
Oh Dubai … you’re so random. So, if you cross between the creek/marina area and Jumeirah beach you might find some interesting cross guards to help you out. Of course traffic wasn’t a problem this time of the morning, but thanks dudes for being willing to take one for the team in case a speeder decided not to stop!
Kicking up my feet and relaxing in Dubai. LOL um those are penguins on my feet — not the best nail art considering when you look down they look more like cartoonish burqas. Totally NOT my intent!
Oh Dubai you’re also oh so beautiful … just our view during a morning walk.
Me all clean and spiffy after a hammam, massage and facial!
Me before my spa day!
And that’s all I’ve got for you now, but lots of fun things planned the next few weeks, so hang in there I’m sure I’ll have more to post soon.
Born Free…
This one’s dedicated to my pets back home. My 15 year old Akita/Samoyed Meiko has always been a runner. She is the sweetest, smartest, most loving and loyal dog, but if you leave the front door or back gate open she will sniff the air, give you the look that says “catch me if you can,” and before you can grab her collar zoom! she’s off.
During her younger days, the pound must’ve had a special Meiko cell. She’s had several overnight stays. One time the kids and I found her playing in the skateboard park. The teens tied a bandanna around her neck, and she was having a blast chasing them up and down the ramps (or are they called bowls?). Another time I found her eating lunch with some construction workers. She’s a beautiful dog (albeit really stinky and shabby now), so I’m amazed no one ever managed to snatch her up to keep. Oh, and if you’re wondering why we were so stupid leaving the door open too many times, she can also open the back sliding glass door with her nose (well she could when she was younger). The back gate has latch issues, and, well, when someone works on something in the backyard inevitably Meiko finds her way out.
The dog is really old. 15 is hard in Akita years. She’s half blind, deaf and crippled. If Joe takes her for a walk she spends the rest of the week recuperating from it. She’s also a little senile and forgets sometimes that she needs to poo, so when she farts she is as amazed as the rest of us when a pellet shoots across the room.
I was a wreak yesterday because Joe messaged me to let me know she got out again. Unfortunately, the painters didn’t think she’d run, oh but she did. Our other dog Badger is a bit of a spaz and while he loves a good walk, he doesn’t like venturing far without one of us with him, so he stayed but freaked out all night long when he had to go to bed without her. It’s going to be so hard on him when she passes. It’s going to be hard on all of us. We’ve known her and loved her all of her life.
My people back home know I didn’t abandon them. They know I needed to do this overseas adventure because it’s something I’ve always wanted to do, and the timing and job was right. But, my pets are another story. One of the disadvantages of this life is leaving them behind. Luckily, my dogs (and one pissy cat) are still at their home with the rest of their family, but it bothers me that I can’t be with them. It kills me that I probably won’t be with Meiko during her last moments, and the thought of her being out in the rain (Phoenix had rain this weekend!) with none of us (especially me, the woman who should’ve chipped her! sadly her dog tags are connected to my old phone number, and I didn’t think to change it) broke my heart. All of us who are over here with pets back home, miss our animals dearly. We all go through moments of this is so unfair to Fido, and I’m such an irresponsible pet owner. How dare I do this? And then we remind ourselves, hello? we left people too. But anyway, you get the point. I miss my other babies too and wish I was home with them (except when I’m out gallivanting about the world).
The good news is my daughter found Meiko through a Facebook page that posts lost/found dog pics (see social media isn’t just for fake news and silly status updates!). That dog did not spend the night out in the cold. Instead she was 10 houses down with a very nice lady who thought she was a ‘gem.’ So, my pooch had her probable last escape, and Joe got to meet and thank a good neighbor.
But yeah we expats sure do miss our dogs. Oh, and yes you can bring your animals here. It’s just very expensive, and in my case it would’ve been unfair to the dogs to ship them all the way over here where half the year it’s too hot to walk them outside without socks on.
Oh and I better include a shot of Felony. She’d make me pay if I didn’t include her, and yes I love her too.
Not much to report on…
I was supposed to go to Dubai this weekend, but my body had something else in store for me. Let’s just say some sort of terrorist act took place in my stomach. I’m on the mend, hydrating away, but damn not a fun way to lose weight.
So, I’m making a dent in my couch while binge watching shows like The Crown. I may have watched too much last night because I dreamt I was a queen mother preparing my son for the throne, which is pretty hilarious — royalty is not what comes to mind when my kin are mentioned (and I am certainly no queen mother). That said I did get excited when I saw the episode where young Queen Elizabeth and her husband safari in Kenya since I’ll be there in just six weeks. Come on Spring Break! I need you.
It’s been chilly here. We had a rain storm a week or two ago and some cold (for us) temps. It snowed in a northern Emirate, which brought on this:
And, I actually wore boots to work all week last week. My toes were totally confused. The resignation window for my place of employment opened up, so I officially resigned, but I forgot to put in my passport number (aargh), so lol I resigned again this weekend. Let’s see if it takes. It feels weird doing this so early, but, hopefully, this means the process will go smoother than I anticipate. We shall see.
Work is busy right now, and I hated taking a sick day yesterday because we’re down to the wire. We’ve got to finish up a lot of stuff before the girls begin their exams in March, and they’re antsy right now. Hell, I’m antsy. That is the beauty of February. We’re all antsy and have a lot to accomplish. It’ll get done; it always does. And then I’ll be squealing over elephants and giraffes, so I can hang in there.
I had to sign up for some after-school training, which I’m not excited about, but the reward for going is three days off when Michelle is in town, so I’ll do it. And, I’ve signed up for an online TEFL cert because I need education hours to renew my teaching license in May (and another language cert doesn’t hurt), so my brain will be the next one to explode and wreak havoc on my otherwise peaceful life. Hopefully, I’ll be able to use some of it in my classes. We shall see. (I’m in the we shall see mode of life again)
As for life in the UAE we have maybe a month or two of good weather left, so we’re happy about that. It’s beautiful and breezy out right now, so I’ll spend part of the day sipping tea on my balcony. I realise it’s cruel for me to type this while American friends and relatives on the north east coast are getting blasted with snow. Trust me, I’ll be blasted with heat in too soon a time.
Financially, my credit card is having a heart attack because I’ve booked Joe and the kids flights for this summer, and Joe is finishing up the final touches on my house before putting it on the market. InshAllah it all gets paid off before I leave in July. InshAllah my house sells for a good price, and I won’t need to worry about balances and whatnot.
And that’s pretty much me right now, unless you want to read about my need to get off this couch and do laundry and clean house (I’m procrastinating, can you tell?).
Watching the crazy…
Reykjavik, December 2016
Is it just me or was last week totally exhausting. OMG so much going on at the same time, and then, well, there’s, you know, the news back home. I am just totally drained (lol and haven’t been back to work long), and sitting here going WTF. 
Zanzibar, December 2015
The good news is my spring break is just eight weeks away, and I’ve got most of that trip booked. My friend Michelle is coming for a visit, and then we’re flying off to Kenya for a week. Safaris, beaches and plenty else will keep us amazed and loving life. But, damn, I gotta survive February first. This is always the hardest time of year at work (for me). I won’t bore you with the details, but I’m looking forward to March and being past where we are right now. I’m pretty sure my girls are with me on that too. If only the days would go by faster, and then slow down when we get to the easy part again. Yeah, I know I’m greedy.
I’m also in the process of booking my family’s summer vacation while beginning my close out process. I’m starting to sell my stuff, and getting my head into the resignation thing, which I don’t look forward to. It’s hard because while I’m happy to move on to the next phase, I’m really sad to leave this life (maybe not ALL of it, but most of it). It’s been good to me, but it’s time I moved along with my man full time again —- and with as much time as my kids will allow me to spend with them (since they’re busy doing their own versions of the adult thing).
I’m nervous about my job prospects at this point — more so than I was a few months ago — but it will all work out. Joe says I need to relax and just enjoy living off of his paycheque for a bit before I get back into working full time again. I keep telling myself to quit the damned worrying — hello? housewife with no kids? pinch me!
I type all of this knowing full and well my dilemma is not a dilemma at all. There are plenty worse lives to lead. Go back 20 years, and I’d slap you for teasing me with such a lie. There’s no way I could’ve imagined this to be my conflict, so I’ll take it — even with all the unknowns and uglies going on in our world right now. I’m still loved, supported, healthy with a whole slew of possibilities in front of me. Of course none of us knows what the future holds, and there are so many whose present isn’t even as close to as good as my past, which was hard but still a lucky life.
Reykjavik, December 2016
And when I am working I no longer feel like this poor guy — although lol sometimes I do feel like that goose behind him.
But yeah I’m just kicking back right now watching the crazy and waiting for my next move (while also enjoying our lovely weather here and my friends who’ve become family).
It won’t be long before I awkwardly (because you know I’m the chunky bird flapping and kicking me feet willing my fat ass up and over) fly to my next horizon.
Size doesn’t matter, but lies and bias do
taken from https://amplitude.com/blog/2016/06/07/cognitive-biases-ruining-growth/
So, I embarrassed myself yesterday. On Facebook, I posted a link to a biased news story that wasn’t completely correct. It showed millions of Muslims gathering to protest ISIS. Granted the crowd part and the quest for peace part and location were all correct, but this gathering was not a protest but an annual event of a religious nature. I posted it to show that Muslims in other countries do protest against terrorism (because I’m sometimes asked why ‘they’ don’t speak up more). My intentions were good, and to be totally honest I only cross checked the story with one other news site BECAUSE it was something that connected with my views. Surely, it was correct.
BUT, it wasn’t. And just because my intentions were good and it supported something I believe it doesn’t mean it’s right. And, this is, what I believe, one of our biggest problems is right now. It’s way too easy to back up our belief system with proof. It’s also really easy to connect with our crowd and get all riled up about the other side because, you know, they’re assholes or idiots trying to take away our way of life. And when we humans vent with people of the same mind we tend to get angrier and angrier. With all this ‘proof’ we shut down the other side, and they are no longer one of us. They are the bad guys.
I don’t give a torn ballot how big or small the inauguration crowd was. Seriously it says nothing about who the new president will be —- although it does provide a glimpse into his or, one day, her popularity. I —- take a picture here —- agree that the crowd size shouldn’t have been a story. But, unfortunately, when the enormity of the event was bragged about beforehand, people are going to pay attention to it, and, well, report on it.
This would have been a perfect time for our new president to show that he is here to lead not rule by ignoring such trivial stories and focusing on telling us what he was signing and why. But, instead, he accused the media of lying and had his press secretary recite “alternate facts.” Unfortunately for him, the numbers are real. They weren’t important before, but now they’re proof that either the “leftist” media is lying or proof that the president is, depending on who you ask. Real fact is fake and fake fact is real. Am I really living in an alternate world?
Accusations, name calling, fact skewering has gone amuck. We’re all clinging to our version of reality while the real world is crumbling before our very eyes. We cannot afford to continue giving in to bias just because it supports our side because it’s quickly becoming the norm to use that shit as ‘truth.’
I’m sharing this here because in a few months I will be crossing the border back into my own country, and I am so very concerned about where things are going. Too much anger is brewing and too many lies are being clung to, and they have been for too long of a time. We have got to get it together. I am not the enemy, nor are my fellow Republicans, but our inability to collaborate with the other side will be the end of us. Tschhhh, do not go into the blame game; my point is people we need to talk and listen and find ways to work together versus apart, and we need to go back to ‘just the facts mam.’ I don’t want to hear about how my side did this and how your side did that (vice versa), and blah, blah, blah. We’re all the asshole idiots if we continue to go that route.
Regardless of whether you think the media coverage was right or wrong —- our president flat out had his people lie to the American people because his ego was bruised. His people are waisting precious time playing the word game and manipulating us into a bigger divide while calling for unity. This is dangerous, and no one’s side is going to be served unless we unite against our own ignorances. Better, affordable health care, more money in our bank accounts, education, the pursuit of happiness for ‘we the people,’ all of that is at stake for every one of us — despite how each of us thinks we need to get the job done.
Please, America, do not allow our leaders to be as careless with their media posts or speeches as I was with mine, despite how well intentioned they think they may be. Do not allow yourselves to do that. We have to be vigilant in ensuring the facts we use to base our solutions on are indeed facts and not some spin to serve our own interests. The irony of it all is if we ever get to this point we might actually learn that the majority of us want the same damned things.
But if we continue to allow this crazy making that’s going on in our society (including our contribution to it), I’m sorry to say, we are all the bad guys. We chose to not be a united folk after all.
And if anyone needs a tutorial on how to begin talking to the other side, this little guy has some great pointers:
Back to reality (and a few final words on Iceland)
lol just using this pic because I like it!
Well I’ve been back to my current real world and wearing only one layer of clothing for almost two weeks now. I’ve pretty much been catching up on sleep, catching up with friends here, working and watching Netflix (OA you sucked me in) —- and, of course, planning my next two big adventures (spring break and summer).
Work is full of changes, which is a constant, and I’m as ready as I can be to guide my girls through it (and it’s good to hear their voices and see their smiles again). InshAllah we end it all in May (when they finish classes; I finish work in July?) with all of us having learned some good things.
The hardest thing for me right now is NOT applying for jobs. I’m so used to having something lined up, and some good posts are popping up all over the place. But, Joe keeps reminding me to relax and allow some chill time (heheheh maybe even Netflix and chill time). This will be the only time I can take some time off while he’s working because once I begin my next full-time position he’s retiring and it’s all on me (well except for the fact that we’re totally using his monthly pension for trips here and there). I’ve never been a kept woman before, so that’s a new border to cross, and I really do like lazy. I’m also really excited about going home to my family and beginning our next phase, wherever that will lead. But first I will have to begin the process of closing my life here, but let’s save that for February or March or, knowing me, later.
Before any of that, I need to tell you the rest about Iceland. I loved that we visited in winter, but I also wish we could go there during the summer. Summer offers MUCH longer days, better weather and more sites. I’d love to see their green! Oh and the sheep taking over the landscape, and the puffins, and, and…those of you who go during summer can tell me all about it.
Pic by Joe
That said Joe did get to go inside a barn and meet the sheep. Um, apparently, the rams are living high on the hog making lambs while they all are warm and protected in their barns. Come spring, all of them are allowed to wander outdoors and feast themselves into a juicy, plump frenzy.
These are the best pics I have of Gullfoss falls, a famous stop on the Golden Circle drive, because it was windy AF and frigid. I was terrified I was going to get blown away. One gust literally blew my feet from under me, and I was pleased with myself for using the poor petite woman in front of me to stop my fall — she, however, had some choice words in her language for me (although didn’t hear them — too busy yelling oh shit). Besides, I’m pretty sure I saved her from becoming a kite, so all is well.
And these are the best pics I could get of a geyser going off. Love the first one because whoops it went off spewing silica my way before I was ready to capture the geyser. But, again thanks to winter weather not the best shots. You will see no selfies of me that day because I was the antithesis of sexy.
My pros and cons of visiting during winter
Pros: Ice caves and experiencing the weather! There’s a tourist ice cave all year long somewhere on the island, but that’s not the real deal. There’s nothing like knowing you are inside — INSIDE! — a flipping glacier. And, my man now has bragging rights — he can drive through anything. Trust me he’ll remind me of this the next time I bitch about his driving.
- Doing the Blue Lagoon while it’s snowing. I’m sure it’s amazing in summer, but I love that we were swimming outside during a snow storm. Sadly, I have no good pics to show. We were there at night in hopes of seeing the Northern Lights, which we did that night, but at our hotel. And, I didn’t have my son’s GoPro on the right setting, so lots of stupid videos of Joe and Me thinking we’re taking selfies. p.s. know that this IS a tourist trap and it will be busy, not something Joe and I tend to like to do, but for we nonlocals it’s still worth it — as are the other geothermal pools we didn’t get to experience.
- The Northern Lights! Who doesn’t want to see that? There’s no guarantee that you will see them, but we lucked out and saw them twice — both times totally unexpected.
- It’s off tourist season, so prices are lower. BUT, let me caution you there are more tourists here during winter than you expect. Somewhere in Asia there’s a super cheap deal going on because there were busloads of groups, every where we went. Joe and I wanted the isolation and solitude of winter — we needed it — and while we had plenty of alone time, we were never totally alone on the roads. Every time we saw horses near the road, there were carloads of folk pulled over petting them — damn it all I wanted one to myself!
These are the only good people-free shots I have, and I’m telling you this horse and I connected. She WANTED me to pet her, but alas the people I politely shoved out of the way were craftier when it came to actual touch time.
I can’t imagine what Iceland is like in summer when it is tourist season. I love people and everyone was really nice (except perhaps me), BUT it’s not as much fun visiting nature’s wonders when there are busloads of us around. That said in summer you could hike remote areas!
- New Year’s in Reykjavik. It’s something you should try to do at least once in your life. It’s a fun city, and this is — so I’m told — the biggest party of the year.
Cons: The weather and shorter days. While we liked experiencing the arctic’s touch of crazy, it prevented us from doing and seeing so much. If we ever go again I’d like to hike all over, explore the north and maybe even make it to the western fjords.
Take for example the area around Vic. While these pics look harmless enough, the weather was relentless that day. We pulled over at one area to walk the black sand beaches, and we couldn’t get out of the car because we were pummelled with black-sand wind gusts. It was like a killer bee movie, only with sand and hurricane force winds. The waves are also no joke! I’m told that’s an all-year thing, so watch out for them.
While we were there some days only had 4 hours of sunlight, some had less or none thanks to storms, but oh my goodness when the sun did come out — she and Iceland showed off their stuff!
Even the fog coming in did lovely dances with the sun.
A plus to other tourists is they’ll take a pic of you in the sun! LOL Joe braving it all with his jacket off, my polar bear.
Regardless of whether you visit Iceland in the summer or winter, it’s worth the money, but please do pay attention to the people who live there. This might be a wonderland of ewws and aahs to you, but it’s been their home for thousands of years. When they tell you it’s going to be a bad weather day; it’s CNN Breaking News weather to you.
They love their land, and they’re such a fun, welcoming people and happy to share it, but some of us disrespect that welcome when we do things like drive places we’re not supposed to drive or stop in the middle of the damned road to take a pic — or even worse disrespect the land and its people by polluting, etc. (although we didn’t see any of that).
Darn it all I’m going off on tangents now, and wishing we could plan a summer trip back to Iceland. There’s people we’d like to see again and camping and there I go drooling again.
Oh too-small SUV how we miss the adventures we took with you! and we’re off the road, I swear!
And since I’m back in my real world for now, there are things I should get done today. Farewell Iceland, our new beloved friend! InshAllah we’ll meet again.
p.s. We also have so many video clips of our crazy experiences driving. I’m hoping one day I’ll actually put them together for a quick clip, but, well, you know how much I love lazy.
Happy New Year!
As is always the case, all good things must come to an end (although most would argue 2016 needed to hurry up and end). I’m sipping mint tea made from fresh mint leaves and wiping off sausage roll crumbs from my bosom while on my very long layover in Amsterdam. My original plan when I booked this flight was to stroll around the city, eat a meal at a cafe and find my way back to the airport. But, I’m beat. The idea of bundling up and finding my way around another city was just too much for me, so instead I’ve tooled around the airport, which is actually a lovely place to lose oneself in, bought some cheese, chatted with friends, and now I’m taking the time to write all about my last day of 2016, which topped 2016’s birthday — another fun filled, firework-laden night!
Reykjavik is an awesome place to say goodbye and hello! Icelanders stock up on fireworks and go all out. Just like in Copenhagen the fireworks show is put on by the inhabitants not the government, and believe you me these viking decedents love their fire. Holy hell it was amazing. Joe noticed that the police helped folks with the larger boomers, keeping people at a relatively safe place away from take off — although I got plenty of ash in my eye. We have no idea where we’ll be this time next year, but it’s going to be hard to top this new year’s.
First off at around 8:30 p.m. bonfires are lit all over the country. We went to the big one on Ægisíða, near where we were staying (about a 30 minute walk). The bonfire goes back to pagan days, and it’s either a way to burn off last year’s stuff or light the way for elves and the new, or just a chance to burn up shit while the kids play with sparklers. Either way it worked for us! Families and tourists all gather around and bond with the coming and passing of another year. Reminded me (a little, our fires weren’t this massive) of the cul de sac bonfires we used to have near my place every New Year’s Eve.
Best part is the fire wasn’t the only thing putting on a show. Right behind us the Northern Lights danced away, letting us know the skies too were whooping up the death and birth of time. I cannot believe we spent a week in remote areas looking for the northern lights and boom they show up in a city while fireworks and bonfires pollute the sky with light and smoke. That’s Iceland for you — sure read the guide books (and by all means do pay attention to the warnings! they’re legit!), but Iceland is gonna do what she wants to do when and where she wants to do it. She is not a land who plays by tourist rules.
The lights arched over our fire, way out to sea. They flared and twirled, but since I’m the laziest photographer in the world I did not have my tripod and DSLR on me (hey that shit is heavy). So, while I’m pleased to have captured the green, you don’t see the bits of purple and the seductive dance they weaved. The video on my camera just couldn’t capture it. But, I worked up a sweat keeping my arm high and still while clicking stills away.
Obviously Joe and I had a blast. It was magical, and we didn’t want to pull ourselves away, but eventually the lights dissipated and we found our way back to our part of town to prep up for the great big fireworks display (although they had been going off all day).
So we may have hit a pub or two… and an ice skating rink.
Another big tradition amongst natives is to gather around a t.v. and watch an annual comedy show that is loaded with comedic skits. The entire city calms down to almost a standstill while close friends and family members feast, laugh and watch the big show.
Looks like the only people on the streets during show are tourists, folks coming back out after the show is over. As for those fireworks they were still blasting away midnight last night, and are probably still booming away today.
Joe and I ate dinner at our apartment and watched some of the show. We were happy to be able to figure some of it out (thanks to some English thrown in and good ole fashioned fart jokes — apparently everyone understands those!). And then we were out in the thick of it kissing 2016 good bye.
New Years Day we headed over to Keflavik where we walked around the harbor and into a giant’s cave.
But mostly New Years Day was bittersweet for us because within a few hours we’d both be off to our corners of the world, but OUR countdown begins today. Seven more months, and we’re back to being together full time — lol for better or worse.
Some daytime Reykjavik pics for you
And, my flight is getting ready to board. Yay me I land early tomorrow and go straight to work from the airport. I’m so not looking forward to how exhausted and crappy looking I’ll be. But, come on 2017. Let’s see what you’ve got in store for us!
Ice, ice baby!
For our first few days it’s been nothing but wind and snow. On the day we set off for our ice cave adventure it was all about the rain — OMG so much rain (and wind). It seems the only constant in Iceland weather is the brutal wind (it’s whipping against our window as I type — kudos to the carpenters, the shit holds).
As uncomfortable as walking on ice in the rain is, we lucked out because our guide said he believes the rain will make the cave unsafe. The poor souls who booked hikes for today will not get to see the wonders we did.
According to Wikipedia Iceland has 13 large glaciers, we went with the biggest one, Jokulsarlon Glacier, but don’t worry our tubby selves didn’t hike much of it. Thanks to the family that owns Hali County farm, which also includes lodging, food, a museum and glacier guides, we didn’t have to work hard. They did it all for us. Every winter they hike the glacier in search of the right ice caves to bring their clients to.
Ice caves are formed by the glacier rivers that flow in the summer. The caves are basically tunnels created by melting water. They are monitored daily (hourly, I believe, on rainy days) to ensure they are safe enough for we tourists to eww and ahhh and click selfies like there’s no tomorrow. So far this season it’s only been used a few times thanks to unstable conditions. Again, Joe and I are grateful for our luck.
The rules are you keep your crampons (if you want to walk without falling) and helmet on, and you don’t leave the cave without a guide. We were also advised not to venture into the dark portion of the cave because it’d be too narrow for us (just wait until you see how rounded Joe and I truly are when layered up and wearing a helmet that emphasises our chunky chins).
As for global warming, we learned that shrinking and growing is a normal part of a glacier’s life cycle, however, the rate of its melting the past few years is unprecedented. It’s changing the landscape of Iceland, and Icelanders are seeing things they’ve not seen before. Each year its retreat is significantly different.
This picture doesn’t show it properly, but you see our snow vehicles right? (and while I know fossil fuel is part of the problem, it was awesome being in a snow jeep) Okay look way beyond them and you see a black band of sand where three vehicles are parked. That’s where the entrance to the ice cave was last year. Basically, its melt has brought it that much farther in.
After visiting the cave we stopped at Glacier beach and lagoon, and oh wow. I just wish it wasn’t raining so hard, so I could whip out my DSLR and get better pics, but my hardy little Sony bridge camera (love that thing) held out in the rain and still captured some of it. Anyway here’s proof that Iceland isn’t just blue. It’s black and crystal clear too!
Don’t those ice fragments look like crystal seals/walruses/pick your blubber critter.
Some shots of glacier beach and lagoon…
I’ve got to hurry and finish this up since we’re checking out and facing another windy/wet drive (to Vik). This is blow your house down weather.
Anyway, here’s some more shots of Iceland ice…
and a taste of how the weather and landscape change in just 24 hours
snowy landscape one day
fog, dormant grass and rain the next!
Of course there’s plenty more to share, but we’re off again! When I have more time I’ll whip up a post about all the rest.
until then we’re off exploring this great island (and it’s totally worth coming here in winter if you’re okay with bad weather).
Our Christmas Story
We’re in our little cottage, although it’s listed as a studio apartment, made of rock and driftwood, nestled up against a mountain listening to the wind batter our Christmas home. Way up the mountain is a waterfall that I’m sure is blowing horizontal at this point. We’re on a farm that has been run by the same family for 200 years. It’s ice cold water comes from the water behind us, as does the electricity.
The information flyer tells us to keep an eye out for elves because they exist here, and I’m sure they do because something is banging the dwelling we’re in, and right now we’re the only guests. Oh those wild tiny people are whooping it up, and who am I to break up their party. The flyer also states that this is one of the windiest places in Iceland and assures us our place is built to withstand it all, so Joe and I are quite safe and snug in our comfy bed.
We didn’t stay in bed all day though. We drove to one to the two famous waterfalls near us (Skogafoss and Seljalandsfoss). One of them is lit up at night, and we drove there for Christmas Eve, but forgot to bring our flashlight, so we admired it from our car. Today’s waterfall was bigger, but the winds kept whipping our faces with snow, so we didn’t last long.
We’re in an area called “under the mountains,” which is near the Eyjafjallajokul (a glacier) and I believe near where the 2010 volcano eruption happened. I cannot imagine a more perfect place for us to celebrate our holy day —- God is certainly with us (plus the elves). I’m in love with where we’re staying, The Garage in Holt (by all means book here if you’re looking for a cozy escape near Vik and all kinds of things to explore). The family who owns the place has been nothing but welcoming and accommodating, even sprucing up our place with holiday touches including gifts and a crispy candle wafer, which went well with the soup I made last night.
There is so much more to tell you about our trip: The Blue Lagoon, a ribbon of the Northern Lights (we tried to catch them again last night but no luck), a harrowing drive to a remote resort, our drive to here, the people, the land. But, those stories will wait for another day because today is all about our Christmas and how very blessed we are. Of course I wish my children were here experiencing this with us, but being here just gives me more stories to one day share with their children —- oh what a lucky life we lead.
Day after Christmas
Oh my goodness the family invited us over for Christmas dinner, and we had a fabulous time. We feasted on smoked lamb, potatoes in white sauce, red cabbage and grapes, and a certain brand of peas for Christmas, plus more of that crispy thing, which I learned is traditional bread. A lot of wine, Viking beer, laughs and good stories were shared. We hope to one day do this again with them.
Joe was even treated to a hidden cave on another family’s land (I chose to remain warm). I’ll post pics of that in another post.
There’s so much to share, but we just finished a long drive. Tonight we sleep near another glacier and tomorrow we hike it and crawl into an ice cave. I promise I’ll eventually post more about all of the other cool stuff we’ve gotten to do, but for now I’m off to get some more Icelandic food in my belly.
Merry Late Christmas and Happy Holidays to all of you —- may you all be safe, loved and warm wherever in the world you are.
The view from our front door.
bettina without borders 