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Amen, WTF, and Move Forward
My mermaid pals and I worshiping at the alter of this proud octopus. LOL Pam is taking communion, while her husband Mike Borgert snapped these photos.
While dangerously divisive vitriol conquers our headlines and social media, all of us, despite being stained by the smoke of this war of words, are leading our version of life. We have our own challenges to process or ignore, fix or ruin, reflect or deflect on, progress or regress through — regardless of what it is or how we go about dealing with it, shit doesn’t just happen; it’s loaded with all sorts of cause and effect that impact our lives.
While I truly am the bubbly, life-loving, grateful soul I think my posts reflect, I also have setbacks that scare, scar and sadden me. I have those amazing moments I tend to share bits of with you, and I have my undoings. Sometimes I have both on the same day.
Diving has become my church. The friends I do this with are my fellowship, my community. Our safety checks and measures are our devotional rites. Our time underwater together gives us peace, connection and a reminder that there is more to life (and death) than our own existence. It rejuvenates us.
A few months ago, I began getting rashes after some of my dives. Each one of them had a good explanation, and they started off as truly just a rash. Last month, I had one that included what felt like bruising and I believed it looked more like mottling than a rash. But, it was on my back and hard to really see well. I drank lots of water and went to bed. The other rashes disappeared within a few hours, this one was still there when I woke up. I decided to go to the hospital (it was a Sunday) to get it checked, just to make sure. But, by then, it was just a light pink. The doctor said it looked like an abrasion from my BCD (what we wear to hold our tank and also use as a life preserver when above water), so I took two weeks off from diving and went back to my old BCD, which has more padding.
The next time I went diving, I had 4 fabulous dives where we were surrounded by sharks on one dive and octopusus on the other. They were amazing, and absolutely nothing happened afterward. Same thing the following weekend. I also made an effort to dive more conservatively, so I was usually at a shallower depth than my friends. We are all also safe divers, and we never skip our safety stops.
This past Saturday, we did two dives that, for me, averaged 44 feet (in diver’s perspective that’s not very deep). The deepest I went was 77 feet for a short period of time (again not abnormal). I felt great when we finished. I went home a little tired, but overall in great health. A few hours later, an itchy rash started on my back. It slowly progressed to the point where I realized something was definitely wrong, and I finally went to the hospital. I should have gone the minute the rash developed that bruised feeling. In hindsight I should have advocated for myself more a month ago. I should have requested that a dive doctor be consulted; I made the mistake of assuming of course that happened (that’s on me).
This time the ER doctor took one look at my back and said he was calling the dive team. I went into the hospital thinking all I’d need was an IV and oxygen. Imagine my surprise when the Dive Doctor and Navy Dive Master said it looked like I had decompression sickness and that they recommended 6 hours in the chamber. People, I had the bends.
Now here’s where you get to witness how messed up I am. I was in disbelief. I mean how could this be? And I clung to the words “it looked like,” so that must mean they weren’t sure. I was also told I could refuse treatment, which would go into my file that I refused. They said the symptoms might go away like before (mind you they didn’t say heal; that’s because the nitrogen bubbles probably just hung out in my fat until they decided to show me whose boss again), or the bubbles might spread to my nervous system and cause life-altering harm (um, including death). But, I didn’t process any of that. What I focused on was maybe I could opt out because my next thought was oh shit does insurance cover this? You see, I’m also in the midst of being charged $1,500 for a colonoscopy and mammogram I had two years ago. The clinic I used was covered by my insurance, but the doctor they used wasn’t. Doesn’t matter that I had no way of knowing, I’m responsible.
So that $1,500 is haunting me, and I know damn well that using a chamber will cost a hell of a lot more than that. So, I panicked. Luckily for me the dive doctor gave me another option. She suggested I work out my insurance details, they put me on oxygen, gave me a number to contact when ready, and then they left until I made up my mind. It was the middle of the night. I also have dive insurance for when I travel, but I live on Guam so I didn’t know if that counted (I’m scarred by loopholes!). Since I couldn’t get through to my regular insurance, I called them. They did their thing and, eventually, called me back to let me know I’d be covered. Divers reading this: DAN insurance is worth every penny. They have called me every night since this happened to check up on me and give me the info I need to file my claim.
Before I tell you about the chamber experience, I want to stress that I was irrationally more concerned about cost (I’m trying to save for retirement in a very uncertain financial world) than getting treatment. How incredibly fucked up is that? I wonder how many other Americans do the same damn, stupid thing.
As for the bends, it’s unpredictable and comes in different ways. In hindsight, I now realize there were plenty of signs these past few months. I had two minor bouts of vertigo (I attributed it to sinuses), have gotten frequent headaches (attributed to stress and computer time), and those darn rashes (attributed to organisms in water; the first time I went to hospital I believed the bruised feeling was because we had rough water, so surely I beat my back on the boat). I wasn’t frothing at the mouth or bleeding or in intense pain. It actually never really hurt that much. I just felt bruised, and then I was a little dizzy and then a little nauseous. It took many hours before it got to its full swing of symptoms.
Our navy base has a dive locker, which includes a chamber big enough to accommodate several patients. The Navy dive team manages the process. I had a team of Navy divers take care of me. So, not only did the dive doctor and dive master have to get up in the wee hours and give up their weekend time, now I had a team of young men who I’m sure would much rather be waking up snuggled to a loved one than watching a 60 year old grandma with a rash on her back fat. I was so apologetic and embarrassed, like this was all my fault. Technically it was (I was the reason why they were there), but again I’m bearing my messed-upedness. I still didn’t fully comprehend how serious this was for me.
Photos taken from Defense Visual Information Distribution Service
The team, however, did everything they could to make me feel comfortable. My shame had nothing to do with them.
Because I had a rash that I didn’t want to irritate more, I put on a pair of very lose and saggy underwear. You might as well just call them a skirt. I also had the ugliest white bra with chili oil stains — I am the couch potato slurping up spicy noodles while watching TV.
Before going in the chamber, you have to do a serious of tests in your underwear, so they can determine if there’s more severe damage. It also had something to do with them needing to see my rash (which had turned into mottled skin, so it looked like a web of blue and pink). Luckily I was in a separate room with the doctor and nurse (not his official title, but I was told to think of him as my dive nurse), and while both were incredibly professional and reassuring, I’m pretty sure my nether regions gave them a good wink while I was doing leg lifts.
I’m vain, so yeah I was humiliated. I tried to act like I wasn’t, but I’ve got back fat, a buddha belly and cellulite. They’re medical professionals and all, but still.
I put on scrubs, which were tight around my belly and butt (just keeping the sexy going), and joined the nurse in the chamber. He sat with me the first hour, continually doing checks and conducting tests — things like what three things did I ask you to remember, follow my finger with your eyes, touch this or that (including my girly parts, so I could let him know if they were numb; they weren’t).
You’re doing all of this with a Darth Vader like oxygen mask on, so it’s awkward.
The hyperbaric chamber once sealed and ready to go is a simulated dive without all the stuff that makes diving fun. You’re in a large capsule that makes a lot of noise while descending (while actually not going anywhere). The men who sit with you can only stay in the chamber for a certain amount of time, before they have to go into another chamber to, well, decompress and leave. So, I had several different divers sit with me. All had to check my back along the way — the tight scrubs slid down a bit, so they got to see more than back fat. Those poor boys didn’t sign up for that when joining the Navy. I think now is also a good time to point out that our military does so much more than war. Every one of the team members did their best to make me comfortable and ensure I was healing. The next time you think of a sailor or soldier, remember I had a few of them tuck me in with a few blankies (I was very cold) and humor me with anecdotes when they could have been sleeping or doing more military-type things.
It’s a few days later, and I’m still a little tired and a little sore. Although while in the chamber, the bruised feeling went away quite quickly. It’s crazy how suddenly you realize, oh my, I did need this.
I’m a little demoralized — feeling betrayed by my body and acutely aware of my mortality. I’m feeling fat and old. I’m also grateful for the care I received and grateful for my friends. I haven’t told my family about this yet, which I need to do before posting this. I’m embarrassed, which is ridiculous because I’ve since learned DCS (the bends) is unpredictable (although we do know it’s because of nitrogen bubbles, and that normally happens because of a quick ascent). Luckily It’s not common among recreational divers, and most can return to diving within a few weeks. DCS researchers are still learning a lot about it. Divers are trained on the precautions, and I think many of us (maybe it’s just me) believe that it only happens to people who are reckless or who ascend too quickly. It can happen to anyone of us — we’re made up differently. I’m 60 with nitrogen-loving fat pockets, so maybe that’s why this happened to me, but I’m also very healthy (no medication or issues) and active. So, there’s that too.
Diver friends: listen to your body. If that rash or that headache or whatever gives you the “hmmm,” get it checked and make sure a dive doctor is consulted. We all know we should do this, but it’s so easy to ignore because surely this isn’t happening to you. I’m lucky mine didn’t get worse.
I’m also not completely out of the woods yet. I’ve got to get checked again and pay attention to my body for the next few weeks. I truly do feel fine. I haven’t taken a day off work (although I’m planning on leaving early when I can), and I’m 99.9 percent sure I’ll be back to normal in no time.
I’m also angry this happened to me. I want to blame someone or something. It’s unfair. How dare this thing get in the way of something I embrace? But this happened, and I am dealing with it in all my different ways of coping. Writing this post is part of my way of moving forward (lol it’s my therapy).
Perhaps the nitrogen went to my writerly cells as well because I’ve created a post that’s almost as long as my hours in the chamber.
And ugh, now that I’ll spend more time resting, I just realized I’ll also have more time to read the headlines and social media posts. I’ll be back in the chamber by this weekend….
Be safe my friends and always continue to love what you love and move forward, despite the uglies.
Here’s an article about Guam’s dive locker (my DCS was incredibly mild compared to the poor man in this article): https://www.militarynews.com/norfolk-navy-flagship/news/quarterdeck/naval-base-guam-dive-locker-provides-recompression-treatment-for-community/article_31dceaf7-14c1-56e8-992d-38375434a954.html
Palau
Sedona’s sandstone cliffs peak through the juniper and alligator pines that surround the rustic cottage I’ve been attempting to sleep at the past two nights. I’m in Arizona visiting family and getting all of my old-lady check ups (medical stuff is expensive and just plain difficult in Guam).
For whatever reason, insomnia has been a constant since I got here a little less than two weeks ago. If I’m not popping Benadryl, I’m not sleeping no matter how tired I am. Argh. I do all the counting and breathing tricks to no avail, but it’s all good because it usually, eventually, brings me back to the waters of Palau. So, I give up on sleep and embrace the current of underwater memories —- until something else rudely interrupts the flow and reminds me that I need to get some effing sleep.
There is rarely a week that goes by on Guam where diving isn’t part of my routine. What I see underwater and the bond I share with the friends I do this with brings me so much awe, peace and connection. I do not take it for granted, and I thank the powers that be for the wonder of this life.
Palau is diving on a whole other level. I was not prepared for the magnitude of its magic —- despite so many telling me it was special and amazing.
For starters the people of Palau protect its wildlife. Eighty percent of its water is a no-take zone, banning commercial fishing; leaving the rest for local fishing and sustenance. It also established the first national shark sanctuary providing a country-sized patch of water off limits to anyone wanting to harm these terrifying (above water), magnificent (underwater) creatures. While tourism (I imagine mostly from scuba divers) is vital to its economy, Palau puts conservation and local interests first.
It’s an archipelago of more than 500 islands, including the Rock Islands, in the Western Pacific. Thanks to its location and conservation efforts, the underwater world is full of life and color. It’s not without its horrors —- colonial expansion and war have left their marks, but nature manages to rebuild around its scars when given the chance. This comforts me, especially since we too are nature.

Picture taken from https://dynamic-media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-o/0a/d5/47/5a/palau-caroline-islands.jpg?w=700&h=-1&s=1
I spent the week there on the Aggressor 2 live aboard, a yacht designed for dive vacations (and it was fabulous —- the crew spoiled us). There are a few other charters that are allowed to also bring tourists, and there are day-trip boats that bring divers and snorkelers, but it’s not as many as I’ve seen in other diving areas I’ve been to. Most of the time it felt like we were the only humans underwater — not to say that our presence isn’t an interruption, but the fish seemed to be as intrigued by us as we them.
We had the opportunity to do four dives a day with three 45-minute night dives. I did all but one night dive (my sinuses begged me for a break). There were wrecks (two ship and one plane), caves, walls, channels and holy-hell-hold-on-to-your-hook corner dives. Some of the top diving spots in the world are also Palau’s most famous dive sites: German Channel, Ulong Channel, Blue Corner, Chandelier Cave and Pelilui (we didn’t get to do this because of bad weather). All the other places we dove were calm, easy dives and just as full of life and wonder where I got to see (to name just a few) lots of turtles, colorful fish, crocodile fish, huge lobsters, a leopard shark, and bump head parrot fish spawning (um, the water was quite cloudy; whew! I didn’t get pregnant).

Hundreds of Bump Head Parrot fish gather during the new moon. A female will shoot up, release her eggs, the males chase after her, releasing their goodies. It’s a volcanic eruption of fishily fluids. Images taken from https://unique-ocean-expeditions.com/palau-new-moon-expeditions
Blue Corner
I was really nervous to do this dive because it’s famous for its strong current. You hook onto reef and fly like a kite watching all the big things (several varieties of sharks, Napoleon Wrasse, Wahoo, Barracuda, you name it) float by you. You look at them; they look at you. It feels like you’re The Wizard of Oz’s Dorothy in the tornado, and the water is rushing by you so fast it sounds like wind. When it’s time to unhook, you Peter Pan fly over the reef, sometimes into schools of fish (we just happened to get thrown into a large school of barracuda where they simply shimmied over a bit to give you space). Nothing reminds you more of your mortality than flying eyeball to eyeball with large fish that could eat you. And, it was freaking amazing.
German Channel
This was the dive I was looking most forward to because it’s famous for its Manta Ray cleaning station. You sit on your knees in the sand and patiently wait for the manta to arrive, so the cleaner fish can get to work. We did this three times and not once did a Manta fly above us. We did, however, get to watch sharks go vertical (signaling they’re ready for their bath) and other large fish come get a quick cleaning. The first time we did this, I picked a bad spot because some ticked off cleaner fish kept bopping me in both ears —- at first I thought someone was throwing pebbles at me. According to the diver behind me, one had a great time messing with my pony tail. On another dive a Remora tried to attach itself to my leg while I was waiting my turn to get back on the boat, so apparently I’m a barnacle bitch in desperate need of cleaning.
While we didn’t get to see mantas where we expected to see them, I did have a huge one swim right under me during our safety stop. I thought I was hallucinating. I tried to swim after it, like the younger divers were doing, but the current was too strong. It’s all good because when our little dive boat brought us back to the yacht, two mantas (one big, one small) and two lemon sharks (they’re quite large) were circling the ship. The mantas were snacking while the sharks just circled (perhaps the chef threw them scraps every now and then). I learned on this trip that mantas are actually part of the shark family — who knew?

Ulong Channel
Oh my goodness, this area is loaded with all kinds of coral (soft and rugged). There were rows and rows of lettuce coral; it looked like Poseidon’s vegetable garden. Along the walls of all of our dives were fragile red and purple fan coral. Much of our corral in Guam is dead or dying, so this was such a treat. It must be where Disney got its vision of Ariel and Nemo’s world. Again, Palau protects its marine life, so this garden was also loaded with Goliath Grouper —- including many feisty males bumping heads, trying to impress the ladies because their spawning period was right around the corner. lol there were so many massive fish, one of the guides rubbed his belly reminding us of just how yummy these amorous bullies are when dressed in butter and lemon.


All of above taken from Internet. Forgive me, I lost track of urls.
Chandelier Cave
Because I’m not trained or certified, I don’t do cave diving, but we are allowed to enter cave-like areas that have large openings. The rule is if you can see light and an exit, you can carefully go in. So, we also got to do a few tunnels and holes that were fun. Chandelier Cave has a large entrance and within it four chambers you can raise up, remove your regulator and breathe air, so we non-cave divers are allowed to pop in and get treated to a glimpse of the underwater cave world. It was really cool, but my favorite part was leaving the cave. We shut off our lights and swam to the light of the entrance. It was enchanting.

image taken from https://fishnfins.com/images/dive-palau/Koror-Sites/chand-long.webp
The coral garden outside the cave is also home to a gorgeous, elusive tiny fish: the mandarin fish. It’s really hard to spot them, but thanks to our guide, I got to see two. Since I don’t take pics, I hovered and just enjoyed watching this little beauty dart in and out of the coral.
Pic taken from https://forthefishes.org/tankwatch/fish/blue-green-mandarinfish/
I could go on for days telling you more about the dives, but I’m sure you’re tired of seeing links to other people’s pictures. Plus, I’ve got to get back to time with my own school of amazing offspring while breathing in another remarkably beautiful part of our world.
I’ll end this post with some more pics taken by either a crew member, a fellow diver, or Susan. As you can tell, we had a great time above and below water. Thank you Palau for all your gems.


















