This time two weeks ago I intended to write a blog entitled “eating my way through Tokyo” because oh my goodness I had such an amazing time doing just that, but the days got away from me and before I had a chance to upload words and photos I was on my next trip: Saipan. And, that was amazing too, but then I had to prepare (mentally, emotionally and physically) for Typhoon Bolaven, and despite having an entire day at home — all snuggled up on my couch with candles lit and TV streaming— I did not write.

I did, however, enjoy watching the different phases of the storm through the sliver of shutters I left open (something I didn’t dare do during our last storm). Bolaven is a super typhoon now, but she was just a newbie when she sprinted by us; gracing Guam with only the outer bands of her wake. The collective sigh from those of us who hid from Mawar had more of an impact than her squalls — and we are incredibly grateful. May we be this lucky should another storm be born this year.

Saipan was a holiday weekend trip with friends. I wasn’t expecting much since it’s a super quick flight from Guam and another Mariana island, so I figured it would look just like Guam. It has the same plants and ocean, but it’s smaller, more rustic and has its own personality. The bird-eating brown snake has not made its way to this island, so there are also plenty of birds singing everywhere. Imagine being able to hike through a jungle knowing there isn’t a single snake on island to freak you out (there are plenty of spiders and other critters that’ll race your heart just the same). Saipan was also spared from the wrath of Mawar, so her old banyan trees are still standing proud, as are all of her trees and monuments. Guam is healing, but it will be a while before her cliffs and beaches are this bountiful again.

Going by my PTSD over Mawar you would think Mother Nature is the only one who has scarred these islands. We have done far worse to them. Guam and Saipan have plenty of stories and ruins to remind us of how much blood was shed here during WW2 (and, well, before). I cannot even imagine what it was like to experience these beautiful bits of paradise become horrific venues for war.

Because we’re an odd species, battlefields eventually become tourist destinations. Add the tropical fauna and balmy beaches, and you’ve got yourself an oasis for vacationers. And then Covid hits: Saipan’s tourism industry has not rebounded. Surrounding a massive closed casino are shuttered shops and sun-warped signs for touristy things that no longer exist.

Imagine what this place was like when it was buzzing with gamblers. It’s surreal to see it occupied only by a man at a desk who is paid to keep looters out, but friendly enough to let curious tourists snap pics. There are still plenty of gorgeous trails to hike, including the Grotto, which brings you to a swimming hole I plan on diving one day, and trips to other nearby islands. The resorts that remain are also still lovely and leave plenty of fun for girls needing two days away from the work world.

Tokyo was a work trip, but a friend and I decided to arrive the weekend prior so we could have some fun time together. We had an absolute blast. I highly recommend Vialtor’s Izakaya Food Tour in Shinjuku. Long story short you don’t go into the tiny izakaya (pubs that seat 4 to 6), but you walk through the area and you do get to eat at three larger local hangouts. The first one we had Japanese BBQ, where I um tasted the raw beef intestine (thanks to the seasoning it was actually not bad, but it’s a one and done thing for me), the second was a sashimi place that was ahhhhmazing (Saki flowed freely here), and the third was a dumpling house that also served a yummy citron sorbet. The group, including people from all over the world, was fun, and our tour guide was awesome. He made sure we learned about the food, the people, the city lol and the drinking — plus we got to see a mini festival.

We also did some food touring on our own; eating sushi at the Tsukiji fish market, tonkotsu ramen at Ichiran and more goodies at other places. We even found a hedgehog cafe where we did NOT eat anything, but instead fed mealworms to hedgehogs.

There’s so much more we did, like walk everywhere, including the Meiji Jingu Shrine, and shopped at Don Quijote, an all-out melee of stuff (if ADHD or claustrophobia is your thing then this store is not), and just having fun being two girls in the big city.

Joe has been in Arizona for the past month, and he returns tomorrow. I’m looking forward to discovering more of Guam with him again. In November I head back to Korea for two work trips, so I’m sure I’ll have more fun to share then. Hopefully, I’ll do a better job of writing while it’s happening versus too many days/events later.

Until then Sayonara (さようなら) and Adios estaki manali’e’ hit ta’lo (lol if google is to be trusted with Chamorro).