Hello Sunshine…

Good Morning World! Aaahhh, I’m back to sitting on my balcony, sipping my coffee and enjoying the sheer joy of having a Saturday morning with nothing booked. In a bit we’ll be out and about showing off Guam to our friend Derek, who arrived Easter Sunday. But, for now, it’s peace and almost quiet (lol it seems like we always have trash or construction trucks beeping away the quiet).

This time last week I was enjoying the view from another island balcony at El Galleon dive resort in Puerto Galera, Philippines. I loved this resort (I don’t get paid for any of this, so when I include the name and link of a place it’s special). Service is top notch, and everyone at the resort made our stay easy and stress free (including transportation from and to Manila). It truly felt like we were visiting old friends — who just happened to have a gorgeous spot of island life.

And a night time view from our balcony

It was my first visit to a dive resort, so imagine my surprise at not having to haul my gear to a boat or worry about anything other than checking my air and dive computer. I also had my own cubby where all of it remained until, sad sigh, check out day. The dive staff were also fantastic — as were my fellow divers. I made some great friends, and while I say this a lot (and rarely do) I am so going back (seriously!). Whose going with me next?!

We also lucked out and got introduced to a fabulous Tuk Tuk driver/tour guide who brought us to see waterfalls and White Sand beach; the next day he took Joe all over the island while I had fun diving. Our first and last nights in the Philippines we spent at the Belmont, a Manila hotel within walking distance of Terminal 3 (which happened to be our terminal). If you have late night or early morning flights this is totally the way to go. There are also other hotels nearby to choose from. I enjoyed Belmont’s rooftop pool.

There’s so much more to share, but I’ll have to save that for my next visit — including diving the Verde Island passage, which I didn’t get to do (long story short I got sick before the trip, and it bullied me a bit throughout, but I won in the end, and I still fit in a lot of wonderful dives). Derek is stirring, so it’s time to go back to having fun on my own island. People, I think it’s official: I will never get bored of island life.

Thank you to everyone I met on this trip who truly made it special! Hugs and cheers!

The in between…

I know shame on me for not posting in quite awhile. I had several good ones to post too — like arriving in Tokyo during a rare snow storm (I now know what it’s like to experience train travel with suitcases during Tokyo rush hour when the roads are closed; intimate is an understatement). But, I just never got around to keying it all in.

It was so cramped in train, I could not reach my phone to take pics of all the body parts I was surrounded by. But, here’s a haphazard shot of snow — something that is no longer part of my winter.

Before that I got to experience first-class fun on a Korean train to Daegu — FYI In Japan and Korea train passengers are expected to be quiet (as in you leave the car, and hover by the bathroom or door, if you need to speak). If you’ve ever met me you know that is quite the challenge, which, um, I might have had endured some productive struggle (but I really, really tried).

In between those two trips was the best bit of all — a visit from my daughter and her family. Oh my goodness, I love my kids and all, but holy hell do I love my grand babies. I treasure the little adventures I get to have with Torin. Isla is too young to be trusted alone with me; she’s an expert mimicker and doesn’t need to learn my hand gestures and vocabulary.

It’s been two months since their visit, and I sooooo miss them, but we’ll be vacationing together again before we know it. The in-between time keeps me busy too. My work, friend, dive and regular life is full of love and laughter too. Plus, I get to see a lot of this…

I’m also just a few days away from my next trip: a vacation in the Philippines! I’m so excited. It’s my first non-family oriented (although I love those) or work trip since we’ve moved to Guam. And, yes, I’m diving — cannot wait to see what I see!

When we return, a friend will be waiting for us — lol he lands two nights before we do, so keep the beers chilled, Derek!

A decade overseas…

Happy 2024! My first blog post opened with a pic of me at work, and now you get to see me at work ten years later. I’ve gained some wrinkles, some pounds, and some prescription spectacles, but I’m still loving life.

When I first began this blog in 2014, I had no idea that I’d thrive in the UAE (I was so excited and so nervous), and that I’d also move to Belgium and then Guam. LOL I thought I’d be in the Middle East for two, maybe three years and then back home living the Arizona desert life (which I also loved). Now, I have no clue where I’ll end up next. For now I’m loving the island life, so all is well.

My only complaint is the same in every country: I’m so far away from my babies (and now their babies). And oh my goodness, look how adorable they are!

I’m so blessed to be surrounded by so much good (it’s balancing out the darker moments of my youth). 2024, for me, is looking to be filled with lots of visits. The grand babies and their parents arrive for a two-week visit January 24, then I have a friend planning to visit in April, one, possibly both, of my sons in May. In between all that are work trips in January and February, and then a fun trip to the Philippines in March.

It’s like Christmas every month for me! As for what I’ve been doing since the last time I posted: work (which I enjoy), Guam eating, sipping and beaching (thanks Barbie movie for making this a verb), and diving. I’ve mastered my fear of depth and have gone as deep as 125 feet (which is nothing to deep divers, but it’s deep enough for me).

I love the last day of the year because it always causes me to pause and reflect on what I’ve learned. Today, I’m remembering who I was in 2014 and where I am today. I am the same, however, probably a calmer, more stable me (some might disagree). 

I am also quite a bit wiser thanks to my following list of lessons learned.

  • Fat floats: The heavier one is the more weight is needed to stay under when diving. My metaphorical soul sees it as the more we gain the harder we are to sink. Experience has made me more resilient — I know setbacks, no matter how drastic, don’t define me and they most certainly won’t ruin me. Plus, I like a positive spin to the extra fat in my life, so why fight it?
  • Feed the hunger: In the past I starved myself avoiding what I wanted to do or learn because I thought I was too young, too old, too inexperienced, too whatever. Why do we do this to ourselves? It looks like toward the end of my decades I jump off the bandwagon and feast away: In my late twenties I married and built a family (my daughter came a few years earlier) and was amazed by how deeply I could love (um and later on that some loves are meant to be let go); in my late thirties, I packed up my kids and moved to a place where I had no job, knew no one, and, well, found myself reborn among the flames (thank you Phoenix); in my late 40s I gave up my dream teaching job to teach English in an Arabian school surrounded by so much uncertainty, and I am now in such a better place professionally and financially; in my late 50s I faced death (lol if only in my mind) to discover life under the sea, and now I want to discover more of what lives beneath our realm. God only knows what my late 60s will bring, but it’ll satiate whatever it is I’m hungering for (probably time to whip up some temptations for my grandchildren).
  • Listen! Listen to my gut, to others, to everything around me. Most importantly, listen to that inner voice — the one I sometimes think is crazy. This one is tough because there are so many voices in our lives, all that should be heard (lol but not all that I’ll follow). I don’t jump into anything haphazardly. I seek advice, I google the bedazzle out of everything, I check and cross check, and I argue with myself. When I look back on my life, it’s when after all of that, I chose to ignore my inner voice, that I found myself in my worst situations. 
  • Be a Pollyanna: I don’t mean toxic positivity. I mean embrace the light wherever I am, even when in the thick of shit. Hell, sometimes I’m a goth Pollyanna, enjoying the wicked while finding the good. Along the way I discovered that sometimes positivity is associated with being naive or too much of a dreamer or too kind. And, I mistook this strength as a weakness, but I was wrong. My cheeriness might annoy the fuck out of some, but it’s genuine and there is so much love and wonder in my life. Rose-colored glasses look fabulous and my view is so much nicer than Negative Nancy’s.
  • Embrace the dark: There’s magic and growth here as well; I just try not to hug it too long. Hence my love of soothing lights and candles; they yank me back when needed.
  • Accepting my momentum: I was going to write “don’t settle,” but to be fair when I was settling I didn’t at first realize it, and was it really settling when it’s what I felt I needed at the time? Then I thought I should write “give myself grace” because, like everyone, I struggle with the bits that are hard or what Ive done wrong. But, nope, the lesson learned is knowing when it’s time to move forward or when to pull back. This one might be the hardest of them all. There is always so much attached to this, and it’s never without stress, grief and cost. But, for me, there will always need to be some sort of forward momentum (and the occasional “holy shit back it up a bit!”), and when I avoid moving in the direction I need to, I wither. It goes back to feeding the hunger. I think I’m accepting the fact that I will always want to experience more (lol it’s a good thing I get excited over the little things too) — and that’s okay. I guess that my biggest lesson learned during my 58 years of living is that death is the only thing that should end our appetite, so if a job, a home, a relationship becomes stagnate (or feels that way) then there needs to be some gear shifting. That doesn’t mean that those parts of my life aren’t treasured. Oh my goodness I miss all of my pasts as much as I love what is yet to come. 

So, there’s more than you cared to read about what I’ve reflected on before toasting in the new year. How about I end it with a blast of pics of what my current every day (well today it’s blustery) looks like. May we all have a year full of sunshine, happy hours and rainbows!

My little thank you to Autumn

I’m in Seoul for our region’s annual journalism conference/competition. This time I get to join/coach a team of students while they capture their stories. It’s most definitely a perk to my job!

Today, for me, is a fairly easy day because I just help do odds and ends with set-up things. The real work begins tomorrow. Luckily on this easy day, Mother Nature blessed us with gorgeous weather. It’s warm, sunny and the air pollution is below 100. Normally, when I’m here, that’s not the case, so I loved my walk around Yongsan base, which is mostly vacant since much of it has closed down.

I love living on Guam, and I love the fact that 365 days a year (except during a typhoon) I can go swimming in 80-degree water — even when it rains because, lol, it aint cold.

But, I’m a four seasons gal. When I’m living in gorgeous warm areas I forget how much I love the fall, until I get to experience it. The sun is prettier when she shines at a slant through filters of gold, red and orange, and oh my goodness the crisp air. It’s warm, but you smell the cold working it’s way back.

Sadly, this time last year is also a tragic one for the city. It’s still mourning the loss of 159 souls to the Itaewon crush. On the other side of the walls of where I am, Koreans march and lament their anger over the way this was handled.

I understand their anger; too many of our young die while simply trying to enjoy their lives. But, I’m getting off track. This post is about sharing my joy for this time of year.

Even the fish at the pond get into the spirit of Go Orange!

The weather report promises me a few good days of this, so I’m giddy I get to love my job while also loving a season I won’t get when I return home.

That said, diving does provide me with glimpses of all sorts of glorious color.

I love the gifts of Guam as much as I do the four seasons. My heart will ache for them too, when I move on to my next home, wherever in the world that may be.

Cloud hopping

This time two weeks ago I intended to write a blog entitled “eating my way through Tokyo” because oh my goodness I had such an amazing time doing just that, but the days got away from me and before I had a chance to upload words and photos I was on my next trip: Saipan. And, that was amazing too, but then I had to prepare (mentally, emotionally and physically) for Typhoon Bolaven, and despite having an entire day at home — all snuggled up on my couch with candles lit and TV streaming— I did not write.

I did, however, enjoy watching the different phases of the storm through the sliver of shutters I left open (something I didn’t dare do during our last storm). Bolaven is a super typhoon now, but she was just a newbie when she sprinted by us; gracing Guam with only the outer bands of her wake. The collective sigh from those of us who hid from Mawar had more of an impact than her squalls — and we are incredibly grateful. May we be this lucky should another storm be born this year.

Saipan was a holiday weekend trip with friends. I wasn’t expecting much since it’s a super quick flight from Guam and another Mariana island, so I figured it would look just like Guam. It has the same plants and ocean, but it’s smaller, more rustic and has its own personality. The bird-eating brown snake has not made its way to this island, so there are also plenty of birds singing everywhere. Imagine being able to hike through a jungle knowing there isn’t a single snake on island to freak you out (there are plenty of spiders and other critters that’ll race your heart just the same). Saipan was also spared from the wrath of Mawar, so her old banyan trees are still standing proud, as are all of her trees and monuments. Guam is healing, but it will be a while before her cliffs and beaches are this bountiful again.

Going by my PTSD over Mawar you would think Mother Nature is the only one who has scarred these islands. We have done far worse to them. Guam and Saipan have plenty of stories and ruins to remind us of how much blood was shed here during WW2 (and, well, before). I cannot even imagine what it was like to experience these beautiful bits of paradise become horrific venues for war.

Because we’re an odd species, battlefields eventually become tourist destinations. Add the tropical fauna and balmy beaches, and you’ve got yourself an oasis for vacationers. And then Covid hits: Saipan’s tourism industry has not rebounded. Surrounding a massive closed casino are shuttered shops and sun-warped signs for touristy things that no longer exist.

Imagine what this place was like when it was buzzing with gamblers. It’s surreal to see it occupied only by a man at a desk who is paid to keep looters out, but friendly enough to let curious tourists snap pics. There are still plenty of gorgeous trails to hike, including the Grotto, which brings you to a swimming hole I plan on diving one day, and trips to other nearby islands. The resorts that remain are also still lovely and leave plenty of fun for girls needing two days away from the work world.

Tokyo was a work trip, but a friend and I decided to arrive the weekend prior so we could have some fun time together. We had an absolute blast. I highly recommend Vialtor’s Izakaya Food Tour in Shinjuku. Long story short you don’t go into the tiny izakaya (pubs that seat 4 to 6), but you walk through the area and you do get to eat at three larger local hangouts. The first one we had Japanese BBQ, where I um tasted the raw beef intestine (thanks to the seasoning it was actually not bad, but it’s a one and done thing for me), the second was a sashimi place that was ahhhhmazing (Saki flowed freely here), and the third was a dumpling house that also served a yummy citron sorbet. The group, including people from all over the world, was fun, and our tour guide was awesome. He made sure we learned about the food, the people, the city lol and the drinking — plus we got to see a mini festival.

We also did some food touring on our own; eating sushi at the Tsukiji fish market, tonkotsu ramen at Ichiran and more goodies at other places. We even found a hedgehog cafe where we did NOT eat anything, but instead fed mealworms to hedgehogs.

There’s so much more we did, like walk everywhere, including the Meiji Jingu Shrine, and shopped at Don Quijote, an all-out melee of stuff (if ADHD or claustrophobia is your thing then this store is not), and just having fun being two girls in the big city.

Joe has been in Arizona for the past month, and he returns tomorrow. I’m looking forward to discovering more of Guam with him again. In November I head back to Korea for two work trips, so I’m sure I’ll have more fun to share then. Hopefully, I’ll do a better job of writing while it’s happening versus too many days/events later.

Until then Sayonara (さようなら) and Adios estaki manali’e’ hit ta’lo (lol if google is to be trusted with Chamorro).

Worlds within worlds

Shame on me … it’s been months since I’ve posted. I’m still breathing, kicking and screaming (okay the last two I do in my head — more than you know).

The beauty of our chaotically imperfect lives is that regardless of where (literally and metaphorically) we are there is always layer upon layer to explore. Sometimes we get stuck until we remember to change direction, and then we get lost before we find our way to the next stuck or next oh wow.

Living in post-typhoon Guam is teaching me a lot about how I navigate my way through this process.

On the one hand, it’s amazing how quickly life bounced back, on the other woefully slow.

I left mid June to spend much-needed time with my family. Oh my goodness that in itself is always layers of joy, nostalgia, love and guilt for living so far away — always that damned guilt, especially when I am homesick for the place that is home but not really. Please do not confuse guilt with regret. I do not regret this life; it feeds my soul as much as my love for my children. It’s simply a mix of worlds within worlds.

Anyway, I loved my time home with the kids and their families. I also loved the too short time with close friends. That said when I boarded the first of my three flights back to Guam, I was ready. I missed my life there.

In just a few weeks the jungle returned. I’m still amazed at how quickly the vegetation grew over the wreckage. New vines and leaves have woven themselves around broken trees and somehow made them stand tall again. The chickens are back — not in the same amount they were before, but the babies are bobbing all over the place. I am blessed again with the scent of wet plumeria during my walks to the beach. Our beach, however, still has a long way to go before its shade returns. I guess it just took too harsh a beating.

The flame trees sang eff you Mawar!

Upon returning I decided it was time to discover the world that lives under the water I love so much. I better appreciate the phrase you can’t teach an old dog new tricks because holy hell I struggled learning to scuba dive. I dreaded every step of it, and I so badly wanted to quit. Other people take a 4-day course and they’re diving with friends by the following week. I started with that same course, but Joe and I ended up doing extra private lessons with our instructors because let’s face it fat folk float (who knew?). Older folk also don’t like letting go of their fears and realigning their instincts. The act of scuba diving is actually quite easy, but the learning to trust you won’t die is a whole other thing.

But this fat old dog finally figured it out, so screw you no-new-tricks cliche. I still struggle with my fears (trust me I have trust issues with myself), but when I’m under and find a sliver of zen, I pay attention and I see that fish and turtles have facial expressions. I’ve seen more than one give me the WTF are you doing look, some taunt me, some are amused by me, some, surprisingly a shark, fear me, and oh my goodness there’s so much more to see. I’m not yet sure I love it, but I am so ecstatic I’m getting to see this other world. I hope I keep doing it because there is soooooo much more for me to discover (lol and yet I’m terrified by that as well).

So, why am I here writing on a gorgeous Saturday afternoon? The man-made part of post typhoon recovery isn’t rebounding as quickly as nature’s work. We’re still having frequent power outages, which I’m sort of okay with (I’ve got a fantastic balcony to sip on), but our internet is definitely a test in patience. Long story short I’m waiting once again (lost count) for a visit from the Internet guy. Considering it’s after 3 p.m., and I told them I have plans at 5, I’m thinking another day will be wasted tomorrow — although I’ll do it at the pool with friends. I’ve discovered that like much of my species I am definitely addicted to the many different escapes the internet provides. And, it’s making me quite pissy having to fight for it. Although, I’m not really without since I can tether my phone — so call me hot spot princess — it’s just slower and an extra click or two of energy (and, well, not always stable).

I also have books, walks, friends and so many other gifts to get lost in.

How lucky am I to experience all these glorious worlds. Thank you to the powers that be.

Post typhoon…

This pic was taken less than a week before the storm. I can’t upload more pics right now, my data is being a jerk, but I will when I can.

My coffee sipping sight this morning:  a rooster hightailing it into our portico; a few seconds later it’s a boonie dog zig zagging its scent.  In what used to be the jungle, a few chickens squawk while another boonie dog heads toward them.  There is nowhere to hide.  

A dog’s gotta eat.  But, there are so few of the chickens left.  A friend said maybe they’re in hiding somewhere, but me thinks only the lucky survived — now they just gotta keep surviving.  

It’s kind of where we are right now.  We’re happy to be here, but some of us have an advantage that others do not.  While I’m no boonie dog, I am living in a condo that has water and air (thanks to the building generator).  My friends a few floors higher do not have water (pump can’t push it up that high; something in it is damaged), so they built a tent around the pool shower.  Our pool is now a sludge of bacteria that we don’t even want to use to flush our toilets. I suspect a new species will emerge from it by next week. 

It’s been a week since the typhoon began tormenting our island.  School is now out for the rest of the school year, work is sort of done from home —- it’s kind of hard to do when you’re living off of spotty data (sometimes it works, mostly it doesn’t, but we’re so grateful when it does).

We’re in a heavy rainfall warning now.  Our streets are flooding, which they do when it rains, but now we’re saturated, have bald cliffs and clogged drains, so yay flash flood warnings.

Communication basically is a bitch.  Radio stations are finally back on air, which is so much better than hearing Poltergeist static.  People are working around the clock to restore water and power, but from the latest report I’ve been able to see basically most of us are still without.  It’s hard for any of us to know what we need to know because the posts on social media are slow, and we all have issues actually getting to social media.  At least now we can hear reports on radio. 

The updates I do get to see tell us trash is getting picked up —- we’re still waiting in my area —-and that there are landfills where we can dump our green waste.  It aint the shrubbery we need to get rid of.  Garbage bags are now sandbagging dumpsters, so no one needs to worry about dumpster flooding. 

The National Guard and police are escorting fuel trucks to gas stations; they are also directing traffic and monitoring the long lines at gas stations.  Cash is in high demand.  There are some stores and restaurants open, some even manage to take cards, but most tell you cash only.  I’m down to $6 and have mooched off of my neighbors. Everyone on this island is grateful to others who have helped them with something during this time — we have our uglies to report, but we also have our good.

Apparently some people are breaking into cars and siphoning gas; shit I guess I should check my car for that.  A few of the broken windows we see might be from looting, or people looking for a dry place to sleep.  There’s a bubble tea shop at the bottom of my street; I saw the owners sleeping in it when I took a morning walk.  Many mom and pop shops are doing this.  

The chickens aren’t the only ones who found refuge in the jungle, apparently there are more people living in abandoned structures than I knew.  There are four structures within feet of my place that also have abandoned cars.  People, including children, live there.  I see them now from my balcony.  According to Guam Homeless Coalition (can’t verify sources with this damned slow service) there are almost 800 homeless people on island, 92 households with children, and almost 53% of Chomorro, Mariana island natives (I need a better word because that one feels like it has negative connotations), are homeless.

Before, when I walked and met the few regulars I see on the beach, I just assumed they lived this life because of drugs or alcohol — and I’m sure many do —- but whatever the reason there’s impoverished living in rain and mud while listening to generators churn away the voltage that keeps some of our air conditioning going.  I don’t feel guilty for being where I am, I earned it, but I do feel something is very wrong with this balance. 

In essence the typhoon blew away our fairy tale of paradise.  Behind the plumeria and palms hid some of our inhumane truths.  I can no longer unsee it, so I’ll do my entitled bits of good here and there, but damn.  Mama hugs to all of us; the wet, the dry, the greedy and the giving.  May we find the strength to do better. 

Mawar Mayhem

Our beautiful beach a week before the storm

I just came in from sitting outside watching the violent waves pummel my bay.  The beautiful beach I walk on daily has turned from a tropical paradise with plumeria, coconuts and jungle right up to the turquoise water to a barren vat of debris, rocks and shredded fauna.  The water is still blue but it’s tainted with black silt and mutilated tree and building bits viciously torn from their foundation.  The jungle that is everywhere on this island is shredded to a scene from the apocalypse.   Our paradise has been plucked bare and is as sad and ugly as a featherless bird.  The chickens are still in hiding; I hope they made it.

We saw a drowned rat in the debris, so the animals fared as poorly as the plants.

I don’t know when I’ll get to post this (internet, along with everything else, is down), but we are in our third day of wind and rain from Ms. Mawar the super typhoon.   Her outer bands reached us on Tuesday, but it was Wednesday that was the worst.  Today it’s still gray with rain and wind gusts that previously I would have called ‘big ones.’  Now, I know they are nothing compared to Mother Nature’s fury when she’s on a roll.

Our building rocked and swayed while she punched and whipped it with her 140 plus MPH winds.  And she did this for about 8 hours.  Prior to the 140 she bitch slapped our little island all day long with constant wind and powerful gusts.  The rain, oh my goodness the rain, was horizontal, and it bore right through our sealed windows and doors. 

There’s a lot of buzz that surrounds the whole idea of a typhoon heading your way.  For those of us who have never lived through this kind of storm, it’s exciting.  We run out to the store, stock up our adult bevies and food —- and drinking water, lots of drinking water.  We fill up our bathtubs because seasoned folk tell us to, and we button down the hatches —- learning that those metal typhoon shutters we normally ignore are not so easy to close and lock in place. 

In my case, since my husband is out of town, I buddied up with my neighbors on the 7th floor.  We have a lot of fun together and never hesitate to turn anything into a party.  So whoop whoop Typhoon party time.  Tuesday night we ate a feast (that we spent Tuesday making) played games and drank enough to sleep through the pesky outer band winds and rain.  We also packed up a goody bag to bring to the weather station, since one of us works there and he was going to be there until today.  We giggled at how wild and crazy we were taking a field trip during a typhoon —- the outer bands, my friends, are not a proper typhoon.  They are the fun but non memorable aperitif.

And then on the drive home, we heard the report of just how monstrous our reason for a party was going to be.  It didn’t damper our mood, but we each snuck off to send our loved ones the messages you send when you’re not so sure you know what you’re in for —- and then we continued to do what we do best.

Wednesday we made fun typhoon-themed cocktails and sat outside (in a concrete corner that protected us from the winds) to cheer on branches snapping off (in hindsight we were the gladiator spectators, but we didn’t know it at the time).   And, we witnessed this (my fellow species isn’t the brightest on the planet)…

Keep in mind we were having gusts up to 75 mph at this point lol and then he swept his balcony off. Sadly the drainage pipe to the left of him did not make it.

We got to toast other neighbors (above is in another complex) also stepping outside to feel the wind, and, overall, we had ourselves a great time.  When the winds and rain got too strong, we went inside and watched Twister because is there a better movie to watch during the ultimate twister (and our generator was working great at that point)?

The winds got stronger; the noise was unbearable, feeling the floor sway beneath us was unsettling, but we kept each other in good spirits.  Each of us had our doubts and secretly prayed the building would hold, but we did not fail our companions by focusing on what could happen. We told our stories and embraced our moments of quiet.   When our generator went out, we lit candles and enjoyed the ambience despite the banshee pounding on the shutters, and the loud bangs of things falling apart.  We went to bed early —- really just hoping to sleep the storm away —- but Mawar made sure we heard her tantrums.   The news told us the eye wall finally returned to sea around 2:30 a.m. but the winds were feisty long past that —- we’re still getting gusts of it now.

You can google to see better pics; I just don’t have great cell service right now. One day I’ll post more.

And, now we sit in the aftermath.  My neighbors and I are incredibly lucky.  Our building is built the way a building in the Ring of Fire and Typhoon Alley should be built —- it’s tough and while I don’t like it swaying, I do know that’s what I want it to do.  It’s built to move so that it doesn’t break.  I like this. We also have a generator that keeps us and our food chilled.  Our apartments got wet (I lost two rugs), and one of my friends lost an entire railing from her balcony, but we are unscathed.   Those are minor things that will be replaced. Our cars also made it without injury.  Too many on this island will not be as lucky.  And, while, we will all pull together to rebuild and help each other, it will take us weeks, maybe months, to repair what one three-day storm has done.  

I want to end with something pithy, but all I can come up with is, pay attention people.  Mother Nature is a bad-ass bitch and we are all but fleas on her back.  Embrace the good she gives and do your best to keep out of her wrath.  And thank all the powers that be for the friends we make in this world —- they help make the ugly beautiful.  

p.s. it’s Friday and I hotspotted my phone. screw my data plan… please forgive any typos, since I copy and pasted and uploaded as quickly as I could.

Land of morning calm…

Ahhhh it’s a cloudy, windy day in Guam, and I am loving some quiet coffee time. I’ve been on the go. Late March I flew home to meet my adorable granddaughter Isla, and to play with my rambunctious grandson Torin (oh how I love our time together), then I came home for a busy week of work, and then I was off to Korea for a week to watch student journalists in action (they never cease to amaze me).

Aren’t they just the cutest little monsters! I loved time with my own monsters too, but I’ll share more when I visit this summer.

Work has brought me to South Korea three times this year, and it’s about time I dedicated a post to it. I’ve been four times — once as a bona fide tourist and the other three as a work tourist — and I can only write about the areas surrounding Seoul.

It cracks me up that the country is called the land of morning calm because Seoul is anything but … the hustle and bustle and wtf of the big city and its nearby neighborhoods has its own vibe and quirk, none of it would be included in a how-to manual of calm the eff down. It does have its beauty. One of these days I need to include a day trip to the countryside of South Korea, so that I could experience more of its mountains and, possibly, clean air.

I love Seoul; I have a great time and see something new every time I go, but I could not live there. That air quality is something else. On two of my trips the air quality index was above 300, which was not pleasant. It made me dizzy and I had a metallic taste in my mouth; the air has a sepia filter. It’s such a shame because Seoul and its surrounding areas have so much to offer.

First off there’s the idiosyncrasy that is Korea’s flavor of Asia. LOL OMG there are so many Only in Seoul moments — and the love of K-pop and weird cartoons is real! Most of my fun pictures include friends I haven’t asked if I could show off, so the pics below don’t show the fun we had visiting a Selfie studio, the touristy but funny Nanta show, or the weird space lift off to the top of Seoul tower. And then there’s the shopping! So much shopping — ladies, you just can’t leave without a stack of facial masks and a purse.

There’s also the food — oh my tastebuds the food! I’m lucky that Guam has so many Korean tourists and expats, which means we have lots of Korean food on island. I love me some Seoul food! Korean BBQ is always a fun experience, and the fried chicken is top notch, but please do try the stuff you can’t pronounce. Its winters are cold, so there are a lot of yummy, comforting soups and stews. lol and if it’s red it’s spicy. It’s all good because a big, cold bottle of Cass or some shots of soju will take care of the sting.

My last night on my most recent trip was spent with friends in an Air B and B in the Yongson area, which is close to where I was for work. We most definitely were the only Americans in a very Korean part of the city, and I loved every minute of it. At first glance our apartment was, um, not up to my I-can-now-afford-luxury standards, but it was clean and in the heart of local. It was tiny — with a bathroom you could pee, shower and do the laundry all at once, and a one-burner stove, but it had access (through a maze of treacherous stairs) to an amazing view. The people we met on the street were curious (because three loud blondes isn’t their norm) but all friendly and welcoming. I don’t know how pedestrians and cars survive the area because there is a lot going on in very narrow spaces.

For the most part it’s an easy city to navigate IF you bought a local SIM card and have the Korean navigation app (I didn’t use it since I just followed my friends) and google translate at the ready. The train system is great. Most cab drivers do not speak English, so you definitely want to have your addresses in Korean, but communicating with body language, broken words and your phone is always part of the fun of exploring a world so different from your own.

Kamsahamnida (you have to sing song it) Korea for always showing me a good time. I don’t know when my next work trip is, but I’ll be sure to leave lots of room in my suitcase and add a few extra days to experience the morning calm part of your world.

Rain

We’re in the midst of Guam’s dry season, but it is most certainly not Phoenix or Arabian desert dry.  Like everyone else, I have my list of talents, but the one I excel at is sitting outside sipping and staring.  The rain, which hasn’t gotten the “dry” memo, tends to enjoy keeping me company most mornings.  This morning it snuck up on me like a child holding back giggles attempting to startle me, but then full on laughter when realizing the gig is up; I know it’s there. It tags me and then darts off to taunt others.

I hear it wake the starlings (oh my goodness we have birds!  Something the island almost lost thanks to the hungry brown snake), and then the roosters (with their loud sore-throated look-at-me I’m awake!) and their hens squawking to shut the eff up.  Like any child, it can’t have its moment without a mess, so our morning song includes the spillage from our balcony and roof drains flushing the geckos out of their beds.   Later in the day the rain might decide to throw a temper tantrum and douse us while we’re enjoying the island’s beaches and jungles.  But, it’s all good because we know that when there’s rain, there will almost always be the birth of a rainbow.  

almost here

Ta da! There she is showing off her colors.

While the dry season, thankfully, does not end the rain, it does bring on the trade winds.  These are adolescents who wake later in the day and amaze us with their coolness and then frustrate us with their unruliness.  They do what they like, when they like, regardless of what we do to try to prepare for them. 

So, we live our days alongside the ebb and flow of celestial children.

It is a beautiful existence.  It is an almost perfect life, but as magnificent and magical as all that I am blessed to embrace, it does not replace the love of being with my own.  I am lucky to have the internet and an income and vacation days that allow me to buy flights home.  That said living so far away has its cost:  I miss being physically present for my own children’s magic.  

I am so incredibly proud and thrilled to announce that my daughter has given birth to her daughter, appropriately named Isla.  Originally I wasn’t going to see her until this summer, but I booked a last-minute flight yesterday. In just a few blinks I’ll be in the midst of all the chaos little ones bring with them, and then, too quickly, I’ll be gone again.

Torin is amazed to now have a sister to hold!

Because my working days include travel and glimpses into lives I fantasized about in my youth, my retired life will focus on being back with family, where I’ll enjoy the bruises, the tears, the sheer joy of children’s laughter.  In between the play and fights, I will introduce my grandchildren to the places I’ve visited and lived.  I will, hopefully, pass on the desire to know the world and cherish all that it has to offer.  May they too spend their years marveling at the many gifts life gives us.

However, I am not yet in the retired world (and won’t be for a few years), so until then I am grateful that I can share my bits of wonder with all of you.